Edible Plants for Midwest Wellness Gardens and Foraging

Although I had previously written this article about edible plants with only foragers in mind, I think it’s also a great reference for Wellness Garden designers.

Most Wellness Gardens are used in a passive manner, as in a place for sitting and reflecting. These types of gardens are called Restorative Gardens, and can be found at many hospitals, hospice and community parks.The other main type of garden is called an Enabling Garden, as it allows people to work with and among the plants.

When designing for an Enabling Garden, plant choices need to selected quite carefully as clients will be face to face with those plants. Many times clients may break branches, allowing sap to run or even eat them, unquestionably.

I have read the United States Air Force Search & Rescue Survival Manual cover to cover many times. There’s some really good information in there that can help anyone stay on this side of the grass longer during a bad situation. (BTW – There is an app for this ) There are two chapters dedicated to plants alone. Plants can be your best bet for long term survival or your short ride to being plant food.

Here’s another wonderful site: Plants For a Future that lists over 7,000 plants and their medicinal purposes, really really great stuff going on there.

These are the steps to the Universal Edibility Test:

1. Test only one part of a potential food plant at a time.
2 Separate the plants into its basic components—leaves, stems, roots, buds, and flowers.
3 Smell the food for strong or acid odors. Remember, smell alone does not indicate a plant is edible or inedible.
4 Do not eat for 8 hours before starting the test.
5 During the 8 hours you abstain from eating, test for contact poisoning by placing a piece of the plant part you are testing on the inside of your elbow or wrist. Usually 15 minutes is enough time to allow for a reaction
6 During the test period, take nothing by mouth except purified water and the plant part you are testing.
7 Select a small portion of a single part and prepare it the way you plan to eat it.
8 Before placing the prepared plant part in your mouth, touch a small portion (a pinch) to the outer surface of your lip to test for burning or itching.
9 If after 3 minutes there is no reaction on your lip, place the plant part on your tongue, holding it there for 15 minutes.
10 If there is no reaction, thoroughly chew a pinch and hold it in your mouth for 15 minutes. Do not swallow.
11 If no burning, itching, numbing stinging, or other irritation occurs during the 15 minutes, swallow the food.
12 Wait 8 hours. If any ill effects occur during this period, induce vomiting and drink a lot of water.
13 If no ill effects occur, eat 1/4 cup of the same plant part prepared the same way. Wait another 8 hours. If no ill effects occur, the plant part as prepared is safe for eating.
CAUTION
Test all parts of the plant for edibility, as some plants have both edible and inedible parts. Do not assume that a part that proved edible when cooked is also edible when raw. Test the part raw to ensure edibility before eating raw. The same part or plant may produce varying reactions in different individuals

Tips to keep you alive and well while foraging:

Be extremely careful when collecting mushrooms. Mistakes can be fatal.

Avoid collecting plants in commercially fertilized areas or where toxic herbicides or other chemicals may have been sprayed. This means avoid collecting under power lines, right of ways, in unfamiliar weedy lawns, beside commercial crop fields, or close to roadsides. Better to error on the side of caution!

Be grateful. Before picking, plucking or digging, pause for a moment and give thanks to the plant that is giving itself to you. Collect with consciousness. Make the area look as though you were not there. Take only what you need, leaving plenty for wildlife and future years.

Once the food is collected, clean and sort it ‘in the field’. It is much easier there. No cook wants a sink full of muddy roots mingled with grass blades and half an anthill.

Before you eat a food, be sure to prepare correctly. Many plants can be mildly toxic and may require cooking or parboiling (and then discarding) the first and second ‘waters’ before ingesting.

Learn to blend wild produce into a meal in subtle ways. Often the flavors can be quite strong. I like to use garlic mustard in my tomato sauces. It gives a light garlic taste.

*There is special preparations needed eat it.

** Caution this plant either has parts that are toxic or a poisonous look-alikes

Wild Onion/Garlic/Leek

Acer spp. – Maple ~ The inner bark & seeds

Allium spp. – Wild Onion/Garlic/Leek ~ The bulb & leaves

Amaranthus spp. – Amaranth ~ the seeds, shoots & leaves

Apios americana – Groundnut ~ The tubers (roots)

Arisaema atrorubens – Jack in the Pulpit ~ The corm (well dried)*

Armoracea lapathifolia – Horseradish ~ The young leaves & roots

Milkweed*

Asarum canadense – Wild Ginger ~ The rootstock

Asclepias spp. – Milkweed ~ Young pods, before they set seed

Asimina triloba – Pawpaw ~ fruits (I’m dying to try these)

Artium spp. – Burdock ~ The root

Barbarea spp. – Winter Cress ~ The young leaves & flower

Betula spp. – Birch ~ The sap, inner bark, twigs

Chicory

Brassica spp. – Wild Mustards ~ The young leaves, flowerbuds, & seeds

Capsella bursa-pastoris – Shepard’s Purse ~ The young leaves, seedpods

Carya spp. – Hickory and Pecan ~ Yummy nuts

Castanea pumila – Chinquapin ~ nuts

Celtis spp. – Hackberry ~ The fruits

Cercis canadensis – Redbud flowers~ The young pods

Ox-Eye Daisy

Chenopodium album – Lamb’s Quarters ~ The young leaves and tops

Cichorium intybus – Chicory ~ young leaves & root

Cirsium spp. – Thistle ~ The young leaves, inner stem (pith) & 1st year root

Chrysanthemum/Leucanthemum – ~ The young leaves

Claytonia spp. – Spring Beauty ~ corm**

Wild Carrot

Commelina spp. – Day Flower ~ The young leaves and stem

Corylus spp. – Hazelnuts ~ Yummy nuts

Crataegus spp. – Hawthorn ~ The fruits

Cyperus esculentus Chufa – Nut Grass ~ The tuber

Daucus carota – Wild Carrot ~ The root**

Diospyros virginiana – Persimmon ~ The fruits*

Erechtites hieracfolia – Fireweed ~ The young shoots and leaves

Wild Strawberry

Fragaria spp. – Wild Strawberry ~ The fruit, leaves*

Fagus grandifolia – Beech ~ nuts

Fraxinus spp. – Ash ~ The fruits

Galium aparine & verum Cleavers – Bedstraw ~ The young shoots/leaves

Gleditsia triacanthos -Honey Locust ~ The fruits

Helianthus tuberosus – Jerusalem artichoke ~ The tuber (Makes the best soup!)

Jerusalem Artichoke

Hemerocallis fulva – Day Lily ~ The young shoots, flower, flower buds, tuber

Heracleum maximum – Cow-Parsnip ~ The young stems/ leafstalks, seeds, root**

Juglans nigra – Black Walnut ~ Yummy nuts

Lactuca spp. – Wild Lettuce ~ The young leaves

Lamium amplexicaule – Henbit ~ The new tips

Lepidium spp. – Peppergrass ~ The young leaves & seedpods

Common Mallow

Lycopus spp. – Bugleweed ~ The tubers

Malva neglecta – Common Mallow ~ The young leaves & green fruit

Matricaria matricarioides – Pineapple-Weed ~ The flowers

Medeola virginiana – Indian Cucumber ~ The root & tuber

Mentha, spp. – Wild mint ~ The leaves (Did someone say Mojito?!)

Mitchella repens – Partridgeberry ~ The fruits

Morus, spp. – Mulberry ~ The fruits

Mulberries

Nasturtium officinale – Watercress ~ The young leaves and stems

Nelumbo lutea – American Lotus ~ The young leaves, seeds & tubers

Nuphar, spp. – Yellow Pond Lily ~ The rootstocks, seeds

Nymphaea spp.- Water Lily – The young leaves, flowerbuds, seeds & tubers

Oenothera biennis – Evening Primrose ~ 1st year taproots, young small plants

Opuntia humifusa – Prickly-Pear ~ young leaf pads,* fruit & seeds

Yellow Wood-Sorrels

Oxalis, spp. – Yellow Wood-Sorrels ~ The leaves & fruit

Pastinaca sativa – Wild Parsnip ~ The taproot

Phragmites communis Reed – Phragmites ~ The young stem, seeds & rootstock

Physalis spp. – Ground-cherry ~ The fruits

Phytolacca americana – Pokeweed ~ The young leaves**

Plantago spp. – Plantain ~ The leaves

May Apple

Podophyllum peltatum – May-apple, Mandrake ~ Only the mature fruit**

Polygonum cuspidatum – Japanese Knotweed ~ The new bamboo-like tips

Pontederia cordata – Pickerel Weed ~ The shoots & seeds

Portulaca oleracea – Purslane ~ The stems and leaves & seeds

Prunus americana – Wild Plum ~ The fruits

Prunus spp. – Wild Cherry (Choke, Black) ~ The fruits

Pteridium aquilinum – Bracken fern ~ The fiddlehead

Pteretis pensylvanica – Ostrich Fern ~ The fiddlehead

Chokeberry

Malus spp. – Crap Apple ~ The fruits

Pyrus, spp. – Chokeberry, Chokecherry ~ fruits

Quercus spp. – Oak ~ acorns*

Rhexia virginica – Meadow Beauty ~ The tender leaves, tubers

Ribes spp. – Gooseberries, Currents ~ fruits

Robinia pseudo-acacia – Black Locust ~ The flowers (only)

Wild Rose Hip

Rosa spp. – Wild Rose ~ petals, fruits (hips)

Rubus spp. – Brambles ~ Fruits Blackberry, Raspberry, Dewberry, etc.

Rubus typhina and spp. – Staghorn Sumac ~ The fruit**

Rumex acetosella – Sheep (or Common) Sorrel ~ The tender leaves and stems

Rumex crispus -Dock, Curled and Yellow ~ The young leaves

Sagittaria spp. – Arrowhead ~ The tubers

Elderberry

Salix spp. – Willow leaves ~ The inner bark

Sambucus canadensis – Elderberry ~ The flower clusters, ripe fruit**

Sassafras albidum – Sassafras leaves ~ The root (for tea)

Scirpus spp.- Bulrush ~ The shoot, pollen, seeds & rootstock

Smilax spp. – Catbrier, Greenbrier ~ The young shoots and leaves & rootstock

Solidago odora – Sweet Goldenrod ~ The leaves and flowers

Sweet Goldenrod

Stellaria spp. – Chickweed ~ The tender leaves and stems

Taraxacum officinale – Dandelion ~ The leaves and root

Tilia americana – Basswood ~ The leaf buds and flowers

Tradescantia spp. – Spiderwort ~ The shoots

Tragopogon porrifolius – Salsify, Oyster-Plant ~ The young leaves and root

Trifolium pratense – Red Clover ~ The young leaves and flowers

Spiderwort

Trifolium spp. – Clover ~ The young leaves, flowerheads

Typha spp – Cattails ~ Young shoots and stocks (inner core), immature flowers, pollen and root

Urtica dioica – Stinging Nettle ~ The young shoots & leaves*

Vaccinium, spp. – Blueberry, Huckleberry ~ The yummy fruits

Viola, spp. – Violet ~ The leaves & flowers

Vitis, spp. – Grapes ~ The tender leaves and fruit***

Blueberry

© Wellness Garden Design

° Here’s the standard warning ~ Kids, don’t try this at home! Go out in the forest and give it a try!! Please truly know you’ve identified the edible plant correctly before eating. I’m not going down for it 😉

Edible Flowers for the Wellness Garden

Designing a garden with edible flowers is not only pretty to look at, but delicious to eat. It also makes the garden safe for clients that may not know eating random flowers can be dangerous.

Growing edible flowers in your garden is easy and so beautiful, that they can be grown in your front yard! Growing them yourself also insures that pesticides were not used (they will alter the flavors), as florist trade flowers are usually sprayed and roadside flowers may be tainted with automobile fumes.

Colorful Hollyhocks
Hollyhocks
List of great edible flowers:

Alcea rosea – Hollyhock ~ Full of vitamins

Aquilegia canadensis – Columbine ~ Refreshingly sweet

Borago officinalis – Borage ~ Taste like cucumbers

Borage
Borage

Calendula officinalis – Marigolds ~ High in vitamin A & C

Campanula persicifolia – Bellflower ~ Sweet

Centaurea cyanus – Cornflower ~ Stunning garnish

Cercis canadensis – Redbud ~ Acidic in taste

Dianthus – Cheddar Pinks ~ Taste like cloves

redbud
Redbud

Gladiola – Lettuce-like

Hemerocallis – Daylilies ~ Have a chestnut flavor

Hibiscus syriacus – Rose of Sharon ~ Great garnish

Nasturtiums ~ Has a peppery bite

Lavandula – Lavender ~ Clean and flowery tasting

daylilies
Daylilies

Lonicera japonica – Japanese honeysuckle

Monarda didyma – Bee Balm ~ Minty

Oxalis corniculata – Yellow Wood Sorrel ~ Pleasant sour taste

Rosa spp. – Wild Rose ~ Petals & fruits (hips)

Sambucus canadensis – Elderberry ~ The flower clusters make a nice tea

Red Beebalm
Beebalm

Solidago odora – Sweet Goldenrod ~ aromatic, anise-flavored

Syringa vulgaris– Lilac ~ Sweet and fragrant

Tilia americana – Basswood ~ The leaf buds and flowers

Trifolium spp. – Clover ~ Taste like honey

Viola, spp. – Violet ~ The leaves & flowers

Lilac
Lilac
Care while processing the blooms:
  • Pick flowers right before you intend on using them, but they can be kept inside a damp paper towel in the refrigerator for a day.
  • Always rinse blooms gently with water and pat dry with paper towels.
What to do with your blossoms:

In addition to the fruits, squash plants provide edible blossoms. Male flowers supposedly hold the most flavor. Many find dipping them in a tempura batter or lightly sautéing them delightful.

There are also many blossoms for the salad bowl such as; nasturtiums, arugula, okra, chives, basil, marigold, fennel, mustard or bee balm. Many fruit salads benefit with pineapple sage, rose, violet, lilac or pansy blossoms.

Candied decorations are easily made by collecting roses, pansies, violets or other edible flowers. Evenly brush a light coat of lightly beaten egg white and sprinkle with superfine (not confectioners) sugar. Let dry on a bakers rack or screen and store in a tight-lidded container.

As daylilies start to fade, harvest them and place in a vegetable steamer until just wilted. Toss with a little butter and Parmesan cheese for a great appetizer.

Ice blossoms are a beautiful way to dress-up drinks and punches. Fill an ice container half-full of water and freeze. Add flowers carefully, then add a teaspoon of water on top, being careful not to move the blooms. After they freeze, fill balance of tray.

Scented sugar is easily made by layering scented geranium leaves, such as lemon, rose, chocolate or mint within a sugar bowl. Using this sugar is great in ice teas and baking.

To make a tasty spread for bread or crackers, fold calendula, nasturtium or arugula blossoms into soft butter or cream cheese.

Do you have a favorite edible flower that didn’t make this Midwestern list?

Do you have any favorite flower recipes you’d like to share?

Please leave them in the comments!!

© Wellness Garden Design

Inclusive Wellness Garden Design

Part of a wellness design
Wheelchairs parking next to bench.

An inclusive wellness garden? There’s been a lot of buzz around the word ‘inclusive’ lately. What does it mean? Well, since researching the topic, I’ve found it can mean many things! And be something that can be hard to retrain yourself to notice. You must learn how to include whatever was being excluded, in whatever their inclusive project is.

Clearly for me, it was designing gardens that are not just accessible to all, I wanted them to be inclusive to all. So if a facility is labeled accessible, doesn’t that mean its inclusive? No, it doesn’t.

photo description of wellness garden
Ideas for the Wellness Garden

Merriam-Webster defines accessible as: ‘able to be reached or entered’, which is what having an accessible entrance means. Thus, if a person who uses a wheelchair is able to get into a garden because of a ramp or a curb cut out that has been strategically placed near the entrance, that’s accessibility. A garden that is inclusive goes far beyond the basic idea of people being able to just enter it.

In an inclusive wellness garden environment, people with or without disabilities mobilize around the garden in the same way and utilize the equipment and amenities inside of the garden, equally. A garden that has accessible or adaptable equipment but isolates that activity in a corner of the garden, is not an inclusive garden. A garden that has no plants that smell or no auditory additions is not an inclusive garden (to the blind). I think you get the point, however when you’re able to walk, hear and see, these things can get overlooked.

Tips To Create An Inclusive Landscape

  • No steps allowed. All elevation changes need to be addressed with ramps (grades not to exceed 5%).
  • Paths need to be wide enough for two people to walk arm in arm. A four foot minimum width.
  • Dead end paths: Need enough turnaround space for wheelchairs (5 feet), however avoid them in memory care facilities, as it can disorient and confuse some folks.
  • Paths should be made of a foot/wheel friendly material. Concrete, limestone, rotten granite and stone pavers are great choices. Pavers will require maintenance to stop them from becoming a trip hazard.
  • Nut or berry trees should not be over any paths to alleviate other trip hazards.
  • Clearly, path lighting is helpful to all.
  • Creating a curb on the paths help let the blind know where the edges of the path are.
  • Adding a railing along the path can allow folks that need stability walking some alone time in the garden.
  • Include plants that smell, sound and feel good, not just look good.
  • Adding other garden features can fill the gap for unrepresented senses like sound (plants aren’t that loud) such as: fountains, wind-chimes, mason bee houses, garden art and bird feeders to enjoy their songs.
  • Attracting friendly wildlife is both beneficial for the animal and for the observer. Providing pollinators, birds and other garden animals a home is truly inclusive.
  • Don’t use pesticides at all! If required, use integrated pest management for timed applications to not harm beneficial insects/animals.
  • Provide seating (both benches and chairs), however leave space in the same location for a wheelchair to park.
  • Evaluate plants by garden purpose. If in doubt, only use edible plants that are safe to handle.
  • Some well placed seasonal planters can bring excitement into the garden, even in winter!
  • Add some raised beds into the design to allow for folks who can’t bend down to have the flowers attainable. (24” high is an acceptable height).
  • Raised beds being used for therapy need to be manufactured at height of 36″. In addition, add a kick-plate to allow standing at the bed more comfortable.
  • Easy pull-type handled water spigots should beinstalled, not round knobs that are hard to grasp.
  • Lastly, it’s important to have shade, water and restrooms available nearby.

Please add any thoughts or challenges you have had either while visiting a garden or perhaps designing one to be an inclusive wellness garden.

© Wellness Garden Design

Happy Birthday Rachel Carson, author of “Silent Spring”

Rachel Louise Carson, author of “Silent Spring” (May 27, 1907 – April 14, 1964) was born in Springdale, Pennsylvania. She credits her mother for instilling her with a love for nature. In 1932, after many hard personal life problems, she graduated with a master’s degree in zoology. She taught for a few years, then in 1935, she obtained a part-time position with the U.S. Bureau of Fisheries as a writer of the radio show, “Romance Under the Waters”. She was promoted to full time junior aquatic biologist after being the first woman to take and pass the civil service test.

Her writing career started in 1951 with, “The Sea Around Us”. Followed by other books titled, ”The Edge of the Sea” & “Under the Sea Wind”. She wrote multitudes of articles on topics from pesticides to ecosystems. In 1958, her work started on the famous, “Silent Spring”, which implied if we continue using (DDT), it would cause the death of songbirds, hence no singing equaled silence. The book was released on September 27th, 1962 with much controversy.

In 1960, after some other health ailments, she was diagnosed with breast cancer. This caused the delay in the publication of “Silent Spring”. After the book was released, many critics downed the book as being inconsistent and the research was not backed.

In the End…

Her book didn’t stop the government from banning DDT shortly after it’s release, though. Additionally, the pesticide industry took great measures to discredit her. Carson responded to these attacks by speaking to organizations, testifying at Congressional hearings, appearing on television, and conferring with President Kennedy and his Science Advisory Committee. In letters, she continued to defend her life’s work and urge that man use restraint and knowledge in his treatment of the environment.

Ultimately, Rachel Carson also started many influential, grassroots environmental movements, giving the start of the Environmental Protection Agency. She won many awards including the Presidential Medal of Freedom. Her research was the vehicle for the banning of DDT worldwide, though again, is still debated today.

Sadly, she died of breast cancer at the age of 56. Way too young for such a defender of the universe!!

© Wellness Garden Design

Featured In Wellness Lounge Magazine

Pamela Dittmer McKuen recently interviewed me for her article featured in the Spring 2020 issue of Wellness Lounge Magazine.

I really enjoyed talking to Pam about the concepts of Wellness Gardens and why sharing their concept is so important to me. I want everyone to understand that their landscaping can be so much more than just green, boring and a chore.

Wellness Gardens are more than just nice landscaping. They entice all of your senses to bring you into a more relaxed state of mind. Many people use the stimulation promoted by the plants to practice mindful meditation.

Wellness Garden article
Continue reading at Wellness Lounge Magazine

“My mother loved nibbling on the mint, rubbing the lamb’s
ears (plants) and talking to the cardinals,” says Farrell, founder
of Wellness Garden Design in Wauconda, Illinois. “I decided to
focus on this type of design because I wanted to see more people
in the happier, healthier mood my mother was in when she came
indoors.”

Holly Farrell featured in Wellness Lounge Magazine

Available to Speak and Share

I am available to speak locally or via podcasts regarding Wellness Garden concepts or anything horticulture for that matter. Please contact me for more information.

© Wellness Garden Design

Get Quality Landscaping For Dirt Cheap Pricing

Simply put: The words Quality Landscaping and Dirt Cheap don’t usually go together in a sentence! However, I’m here to tell you how they CAN go together and how you can get the landscaping you’ve been dreaming of, without breaking the bank.

A woman enjoying her quality landscaping
Enjoy every season’s display of color

I wrote this guide to help you learn a bit about the process that goes into the design and implementation of your landscape. After reading this guide, you’ll be able to make an educated and informed decision regarding your landscaping.

The Opposite of Quality Landscaping

Sadly, just like any industry, it’s important to realize there are some businesses that are only looking for a profit, aren’t addressing your budget or just don’t have the experience to do the job right.

Finding the right designer to work with is key to achieving your perfect landscaping. Although landscape contractors have landscape designers or architects on staff, they don’t always have all your best interests at heart. Let me explain:

Many times landscape contractors will use the same 30 plants, the same stone materials and even the same designs for multiple residences. Yikes!! Why? So they can make more money and save time. By using the same plants and stone materials, contractors are able to buy those materials in bulk. The same goes for the designs, why reinvent the design for each house, when with a little tweak, it can be used at multiple houses.

Another issue that can arise is scheduling. Countless times, larger jobs are put in front of smaller installs, or a job is started and days (or even weeks) go by before seeing the contractor again. Granted, weather-related delays are a part of landscaping, however your job shouldn’t be pushed to the back-burner because of the weather or the size of the job.

This Isn’t Quality Landscaping

Generally speaking, unless you have landscaping knowledge yourself, you won’t know if the landscape contractor is working with your best interests in mind. It’s not uncommon to see different plants installed (or different sizes than contracted), less base material under pavers than is recommended or causing future problems like flooding or damage to existing trees and plants.

Lastly, landscape contractors generally make more money on the installation (labor) of your landscape install than on the materials. With that being said, landscape contractors are unlikely to sell you a design without the catch of installing it. So if you’re looking to save money and install yourself, don’t look to a landscape contractor for your design.

So Why Choose Me For Your Landscape Design?

Why? Because I will design quality landscaping that satisfies your wants, meets your needs, falls within your budget and is installed in a timely manner.

Quality Landscaping Design

As an independent landscape designer I work for YOU and will act as a liaison between you and the installing landscape contractor by doing the following:

  • Quoting out your design to many responsible landscape contractors, assuring you’re getting the best service and schedule for the best price.
  • Tagging your woody plants at the nursery, to be sure you’re getting the best stock
  • Being present on installation day to check all aspects of the build
  • Keeping the landscape contractor on schedule
  • Supplying you detailed care information on all of your plants

Adventurous? You Can Install Your Plants Yourself and Save BIG BUCKS!

Here’s something you don’t see everyday… Being able to ‘Plant Your Own Landscape‘! Here’s how I’m able to save you a lot of money! Remember, landscape contractors make the majority of their money on the labor (install) part of the build.

There’s only two requirements needed from you; the physical capacity to be able to plant a plant (bending, kneeling, strength) and the tools (shovel, spade, rake). That’s it!

A Quick Note About Nurseries and Big Box Stores

Before you bring up the fact you can go to your local nursery or (gasp) that Big Box Store for plants, let me tell you a few things about the plants at those locations.

OK, I’m not going to dis local nurseries too much. Some points I’ll make is that the selection won’t be as wide and the pricing will be double. If they are willing to sketch a plan out for you, it will only encompass plants they have on their lot, which may be limiting. They also aren’t at your home, viewing the actual location the plants will be growing, which can cause growing issues in the future such as not enough sunlight for a plant to flower…. or too much sunlight and the plant burns up.

With regards to Big Box Store plants, just don’t do it! Other than getting your annuals or veggies from these stores, leave those other plants right where they’re at. Being that these stores are nation-wide, they get their plants from all over the nation, too. Although I’m sure they try to only stock plants that are hardy in the area, you really don’t know where the plants came from, which means there’s no guarantee they will survive for long.

Here’s How the DIY Planting Service Works:

  • After design approval, we assess where the plants will be installed. This may include sod removal, old plant removal, adding soil (I’ll give you amounts) or any other preparation work that needs to be completed before the plants arrive.
  • After all the preliminary work is done, the plant delivery is scheduled.
  • Next, I will personally choose your plants at the many wholesale nurseries I work with to be sure they are healthy and well-formed.
  • Finally, I will deliver your plants, place them in their locations and give you the knowledge you need to plant them correctly.
  • Lastly, I’ll calculate the amount of mulch needed and have it delivered.
  • Can it get any easier than that?!?

Landscape Design Costs

It’s important to realize that every landscape design has its own set of challenges. For this reason, it would be a disservice of me to quote rates. However, you will have a clear understanding of the processes and estimated costs necessary to bring your landscape to fruition before any money is exchanged.

Things I Need For Our Meeting:

  • Plat of survey
  • Wish list of desired features (Pinterest or Houzz are great assets, just tag me into your page)
  • Favorite colors or plants – photos work if you don’t know the name.
  • List of any special needs, if any (i.e. no stairs, limited sight, children, housebound family member, etc.)
  • Budget – I can easily phase out the project over a few years

Contact me today to get your quality landscaping done right for dirt cheap prices!!

© Wellness Garden Design

FAQ’s

How do I save money installing landscaping?

By planting your own plants! Remember, landscape contractors make the majority of their money on the labor (install) part of the build. By working with a designer that allows you to DIY your own install, you’ll save over half the going price of an installed landscape. Plants placed in plantbed via quality landscaping

How do I find a Landscape Designer?

Finding a good landscape designer will require some interviewing on the homeowners part. Talk to a few and make sure you’re not getting a cookie-cutter plan with the same boring plants. Be sure to ask about budgets and scheduling, as those two things can shift once season starts. landscape designer